Building bonds across borders, one stitch at a time

A short video showing Tamara Vucic, wife of Serbian President Aleksandar Vucic, browsing for custom-fit clothes at Shanghai's South Bund Soft Spinning Material Market during their recent visit to China, went viral on social media.

But long before the high-profile guest turned the global spotlight on this fabric market, it had cemented its position as a go-to sartorial destination among travelers from around the world.

Every day for nearly three decades, as rolling shutters creak open at 8:30 am, visitors from home and abroad line up at the market's entrance.

"Many customers make our market their first stop. Some come here even before they check into hotels," said Chen Xia, a second-generation tailor who runs a shop owned by her in-laws, revealing a counterintuitive Shanghai tourism secret.

While many travelers flock to the Bund or Lujiazui's skyscrapers, a dedicated group heads straight to the three-story building located on Lujiabang Road in the downtown Huangpu district to order or collect tailored clothes. The market, which dates back to the 1990s, today boasts nearly 300 shops and sees more than 1 million visitors annually.

Foreigners account for 40 percent of these customers and contribute to 70 percent of the total sales, said Zhang Shengxiang, general manager of the market, adding that for some shops, they make up more than 60 percent of the clientele.

Consistently ranking in the top two on Tripadvisor's list of must-see places in Shanghai, the market is frequently featured in foreign travel guides and has even become a "secret itinerary" for visiting dignitaries and celebrities.

Pran Patel, a pilot from the United States, said he is a regular at the market, "because Mr Rong is always right". Referring to the owner of Shop No 144, he said: "Mr Rong does a very good job with the quality of my suits, shirts, trousers and jackets. And I have all my friends come here all the time."

Zhang, the general manager, said that one of the unique selling points of the market is making custom-fit clothes within 24 hours.

"Order today, pick up tomorrow — this kind of service is almost unheard of anywhere else in the world. If one foreigner in a business group or tour knows this place, that person will bring everyone here," he said, noting that 95 percent of the shops focus on tailoring clothes in both Western and Chinese styles, rather than just selling materials

In addition to tailored clothes, one can order custom-made curtains, bedding and leather goods, including shoes, at the market and expect speedy service.

Jan Schutte, a German professor at the Shanghai Theatre Academy, has been a customer at Jenny's Shop in the market for more than four years. "Jenny has made suits for my daughter, dresses for my wife, and shirts, jackets and suits for me. Every time friends come to Shanghai, this is the first place I recommend," Schutte said.

The reputation of the fabric market has reached global events. According to Zhang, F1 Chinese Grand Prix teams, Shanghai Masters snooker tour referees and NBA China Games players all order their custom wear here.

Tailoring a suit of the same quality costs at least 5,000 yuan ($739) abroad, but here, the price starts at 1,000 yuan, Zhang said, adding that "unbeatable value" is only a part of the story, because what drives customer loyalty is the remarkable craftsmanship.

Chen, the shop owner, said that businesses here are built on reputation and skills. "We offer customized services. From fabric selection and measurement guides to fitting trials and final delivery — everything is done by hand," she said.

Dai Meixiang, who has been running a qipao shop for more than 20 years, started designing and making traditional Chinese clothes at the age of 18. "We create custom patterns for every single customer. While costs are higher, we keep the profits low for the benefit of our customers, maintaining an excellent reputation."

While the market offers both Chinese and imported materials, most foreigners choose the former.

Brazilian fashion designer Elisa Lima, who visits the market every year to purchase fabric and order custom-fit clothes, said that more than the affordable price for quality materials, she values the experience.

"The tailors can tell what kind of fabric will be perfect for the Brazilian summer, or what will be comfortable for travel in general," Lima said.

Zhang, the general manager, said that many foreigners request Chinese elements in their custom orders, as "a touch of Chinese style makes their clothes stand out".

Schutte, the German professor, is one of them. He recently ordered a 2,000-yuan suit jacket, and said he was "most satisfied" with the Chinese-style lining.

"My friends have had clothes with Chinese elements and styles made here, and my daughter has often ordered qipao," he added.

Dai, the qipao shop owner, noted a significant rise in her foreign clients from countries such as Singapore, Malaysia, France and the US. She said she continuously adapts to foreign customers' aesthetic requirements, adjusting qipao designs to suit different body types and incorporating fashionable elements, collars, and even bold European-style details.

Zhang said that clothes gain added value through culture, because "without culture, they are just fabric". The market has been Shanghai's calling card for 20 years, he said. "We're featured in foreign magazines and travel journals, even mentioned in overseas geography classes."

He envisions introducing designer brands and enhancing amenities at the market to further strengthen its reputation and elevate customer experience.