Festival showcases a culinary coming-of-age

In a city where East meets West on dining plates, Shanghai has launched a yearlong celebration event of international cuisine, Global Taste in Shanghai, positioning itself as one of the world's premier culinary destinations.

The festival kicked off this month, representing a move to showcase Shanghai's rich and diverse international dining scene and fusion of flavors and cultural intersections. The metropolis currently boasts nearly 10,000 restaurants representing 43 countries and regions across five continents.

"Global cuisine is not just a carrier of city culture, but is also a universal language for international exchange that transcends borders and speaks directly to hearts," says Shen Weihua, Party secretary of the Shanghai Municipal Commission of Commerce.

"The concentration of global cuisines is a unique charm of Shanghai, and systematically enhances its influence is of strategic significance," he adds.

The story of Shanghai's international dining scene is perhaps best told through its restaurateurs, who have witnessed and shaped the city's gastronomic evolution.

John Liu, the Chinese-American founder of Scarpetta Trattoria, has lived this transformation. Arriving in Shanghai in 2003 as a financier, Liu found fertile ground there to pursue his culinary dreams, choosing Italian cuisine for its parallels to Chinese cooking.

"When we first opened nearly 14 years ago, high-level international restaurants were not as common, and expatriates dominated our customer base," Liu recalls. "Today, 80 to 90 percent of our clientele is Chinese, reflecting a remarkable shift in local palates and preferences."

This evolution has sparked innovation in Shanghai's kitchens. At Scarpetta Trattoria, Liu has developed signature dishes like Napoli pizza that have evolved to cater to local tastes.

"We're seeing a fascinating convergence," Liu notes. "Western restaurants are now learning from Chinese establishments, particularly their expertise in sourcing exceptional ingredients from across regions."