China shakes, stirs Asia's best bars list

Going global

China's bar industry is becoming increasingly connected to the world, but not simply by importing foreign concepts.

Guest shifts — in which bartenders travel to other cities or countries to work behind another bar — are helping build a wider professional network.

Ciocca and his team have traveled to Europe, Southeast Asia, Australia and the United States for guest shifts, bringing Chinese ingredients and techniques to overseas audiences while inviting bartenders they meet abroad to China.

"Every time we traveled overseas, we invited people back to visit us in China," he said.

The Guangdong-Hong Kong-Macao Greater Bay Area has emerged as one of the most dynamic parts of this transformation.

Hong Kong once served as the main gateway for global cocktail culture in southern China. Increasingly, the relationship has become two-way.

Shenzhen, with its young population, entrepreneurial culture and strong consumer market, has rapidly developed its own nightlife. Guangzhou, Shenzhen, Hong Kong and Macao are increasingly connected through guest shifts, collaborations and professional networks.

Christian Dolenc, general manager of the Mandarin Oriental, Shenzhen, described the relationship between Shenzhen and Hong Kong as "yin and yang".

"When I first arrived in Hong Kong, all the people from Guangdong would travel to Hong Kong to have international-level experiences. Now, it's a two-way street. We have a lot of supporters from Hong Kong coming here to marvel at Shenzhen and everything it has to offer."

Hong Kong brings a mature cocktail culture, while the Chinese mainland offers a large market and a growing talent pool.

MO Bar's No 5 ranking on the list has further positioned Shenzhen as a destination for travelers seeking contemporary Chinese hospitality.

"Chinese hospitality at the top level is truly delivering," Dolenc said. "Our role is to tell that story more strongly and more frequently."

Global rankings can also create a powerful multiplier effect. A bar that appears on a major list can attract overseas visitors, generate hotel partnerships and contribute to a city's international profile.

But China's bars cannot build a global identity through individual efforts alone.

"When Chinese bartenders go abroad for guest shifts, foreigners don't distinguish whether you're from Changsha or Shenzhen. To them, you're a Chinese bartender," Liu said.

That makes cooperation within the industry increasingly important — from recommending one another and sharing information to building cross-border connections and creating opportunities for the next generation.

"Through CMYK, we want to let Changsha see the world while bringing Changsha to the world," Liu said.