Beyond the hearth, zongzi still the heart of holiday

But urbanization, busy work schedules and smaller households have gradually changed the pastime. Many young people no longer have the time or skills to wash leaves, soak rice, prepare fillings and boil zongzi.

For Lin, buying the specialty is a pragmatic choice. He and his wife, both fond of southern-style savory zongzi, usually prepare several varieties before the holiday.

"It is convenient and saves a lot of effort," he said. "The products on the market are also quite good now. But honestly, no matter how good they taste, they still seem a little different from the ones my grandparents made. What is missing is the warmth of making them together."

A wide range of the dumplings are commercially available.

Affordable loose zongzi and bagged products meet daily household needs. Midrange gift boxes have become a common choice for visiting relatives and friends. High-end zongzi, made with ingredients such as abalone, sea urchin, scallops, black truffle or high-quality pork, are intended as business gifts and for consumers seeking a more upmarket culinary experience.

Fancier dumplings have also entered the market, with gift boxes becoming an important part of corporate gift-giving and family consumption, the report said. It also noted that more than 5,600 businesses in China had names or product focuses related to zongzi as of May. About 40 percent are located in the southeastern coastal region.