Noodling around on long summer days is a Shaanxi tradition

As the summer solstice arrives on Sunday, across the wheat fields of the Guanzhong Plain, the first harvest of early summer has just been completed. Fresh grain is milled into new flour, still carrying the fragrance of the earth.

In Shaanxi province, this moment is not marked by ritual or festivity, but by something far more immediate and familiar — the transformation of the new wheat into bowls of noodles to be shared around the table.

A traditional Chinese saying goes, "Eat dumplings on the winter solstice and noodles on the summer solstice." The custom reflects the rhythm of seasonal eating, with foods chosen to suit the body's needs as the temperature rises.

In Shaanxi, however, noodles are not just a seasonal dish — they are a way of life.

Actor Sun Hao, a native of Xi'an, the capital of Shaanxi, understands that connection well.

The 58-year-old recently won praise for his role in the television drama Zhu Jue, or Leading Role. While audiences discussed his performance, many also noticed the authentic Shaanxi dishes that frequently appeared on screen.

According to Sun, the production team ran a dedicated cafeteria serving local specialties, including oil-splashed noodles.

"One bite is enough," he said. "I can immediately tell whether the noodles are good."

That confidence comes from growing up in a region where wheat-based foods dominate daily life. In much of Shaanxi, especially the Guanzhong Plain, noodles, steamed buns and flatbreads remain staples on family tables.

One of the most representative dishes for the summer solstice is jiangshui mian, or fermented vegetable noodle soup.

Ren Haibo, executive chef at the restaurant in the Beijing office of the Shaanxi provincial government, describes it as the perfect antidote to summer heat. The dish begins with celery that is fermented in water used to cook noodles over several days. The resulting sour broth is seasoned with garlic, dried chilies and aromatics before being poured over freshly cooked noodles.

"The taste is sour, fragrant and refreshing," Ren said. "It stimulates the appetite and helps people feel comfortable in hot weather."

Long before air conditioners became commonplace, such fermented foods offered a practical way to cope with high summer temperatures. Today, jiangshui mian remains a seasonal favorite in central Shaanxi.

Jiangshui yu is a traditional Shaanxi dish consisting of cornmeal dough pieces served in a fermented vegetable broth. In spite of its name including the Chinese character yu, it contains no fish. The small, doughy pieces are made from cornmeal or wheat flour and are served in a sour broth with garlic, chives and chili oil, creating a refreshing balance of sour and spicy flavors.

"In the past, when new wheat arrived, the first thing people wanted to do was taste the fresh flour," said Ren.

That tradition lives on in dishes such as Qishan saozi noodles, a specialty from Baoji and western Shaanxi.

Often served to welcome guests, the noodles are renowned for their harmonious blend of sourness, spiciness and aroma. A colorful topping of diced vegetables, tofu, egg strips and meat is ladled over thin, springy noodles.

The dish reflects the deep agricultural tradition of Shaanxi, where wheat has been both a livelihood and daily sustenance for generations. In summer, the noodles are often cooled and served as a refreshing meal on hot days.

For Shaanxi people, however, the love of wheat extends beyond noodles.

One of Sun Hao's favorite local dishes is xiaochao paomo, a spicy variation of Xi'an's famous soaked flatbread dish.

Unlike the traditional lamb-based paomo, the stir-fried version has a more pronounced sour and spicy flavor.

"It's incredibly fragrant," said Sun."The taste is stronger, and younger people especially love it."

The ritual surrounding the dish is almost as important as the food itself. Diners traditionally tear pieces of flatbread by hand before it is cooked with broth and other ingredients.

"People sit together, chat and tear the bread apart piece by piece," Sun said. "That's part of the meal."

Although the process may seem time-consuming, it reflects a slower, more communal approach to dining that remains deeply rooted in Shaanxi culture.

As the year's longest day arrives and fresh wheat enters local kitchens, the cycle of harvest to table continues uninterrupted — carried forward in bowls of noodles shaped by generations.