Xinjiang riders bring ancient horse culture into the modern era

Pushing limits

In Tashikurgan Tajik autonomous county on the eastern Pamir Plateau, Gulisa Dihan is pushing the boundaries of long-standing traditions.

She grew up on the Pamir Plateau, where horse racing and sheep catching are everyday pastimes valued for their emphasis on freedom, speed and courage.

Gulisa comes from a family of riders. Her grandfather, father and brothers all made names for themselves in local horse racing. Growing up watching them, she was drawn to the male-dominated sport. As her father aged, with her elder brother busy with work and her younger brother still in school, she stepped forward to carry on the family legacy.

At university, Gulisa's athletic talent earned her a spot on the long-distance running team. Every holiday, she returned to her village about 4,000 meters above sea level with a training schedule in hand, running the high-altitude trails.

Like horse racing itself, her choice drew skepticism. Older villagers often questioned her: "Why not take a car? Why waste time on something so useless?"

The doubts never slowed her. She competed in Xinjiang's student athletics championships and repeatedly won regional mid — and long-distance events.

"I've long been used to being misunderstood," the 24-year-old says."Running tests personal endurance. Horse racing tests the bond between rider and horse. Both give me a sense of growth and the courage to face the unknown."

She rises before dawn, wraps herself against the cold and leads her horse, Black Pearl, out to warm up. Training often lasts until dusk, and she returns home beneath a sky full of stars. Wind or snow, she keeps going.

In early spring 2024, Gulisa became Tashikurgan's first female rider in a 5,000-meter horse race, drawing local attention. Competing alongside many male riders, she showed no nerves and finished sixth.

"Let's honor the county's first female rider!" the announcer shouted, prompting cheers from the crowd.

In Tashikurgan, home to 42,000 people, sports have become a common passion among the youth. Gulisa's courage has inspired more local girls to ride, and today dozens of female riders, including high school students, compete in a sport once reserved for men, leaving striking trails across the highlands.

Land reshaped by hooves

In Xirzat's hometown of Zhaosu county, horses have also reshaped the destiny of the land.

Historically famed for the "heavenly horses" of the Ili River Valley near the Tianshan Mountains, Zhaosu still boasts abundant equine resources with around 122,000 horses, ranking it among China's top regions for equine numbers. Though no longer used for labor, horses are now at the heart of a modern industry.

Since 2021, the county has hosted over 420 horse racing events at various levels, with a growing, market-oriented system attracting riders from across China and abroad.

French equestrian Andre Coriou, 65, returned to Zhaosu last year to compete in an endurance race, more than a decade after his first visit.

"Unlike major cities, the mountains, culture and terrain here are truly enchanting," says Coriou, who has practiced equestrian sports worldwide for over 30 years.

Officials say Zhaosu is developing a full industry chain covering breeding, competitions, veterinary care, trading and cultural tourism. In 2024, the horse industry's total output reached 1.423 billion yuan ($205.6 million).

For herders like Bayinkexik, the shift has been profound.

"In the past, winter was harsh and there was little income," he says. "We relied on selling mares' milk in summer and livestock in autumn. In winter, there was almost nothing."

Now he leads a team in twice-daily performances with seven other herders. On the snow-covered plains, his shouts pierce the cold as more than 100 horses thunder past for visitors' cameras.

Others in his village have opened homestays, guided horseback tours or sold traditional foods such as horse sausage and dairy products. In 2025, Zhaosu received 9.4 million tourist visits, a sharp year-on-year increase.

Bayinkexik plans to expand his herd this summer.