The flavor of homecoming

Gatherings beyond tradition

As traditions endure, the settings in which they are celebrated continue to evolve. While home kitchens still glow across towns and villages, an increasing number of families now mark Chinese New Year’s Eve at restaurant tables.

Busy schedules, smaller households, and a thriving dining industry have turned restaurant reunion dinners into a modern alternative — without diminishing the meaning of reunion itself.

For Homan Tsui, executive chef of Imperial Court at MGM Macau in Macao, Spring Festival has meant work for more than two decades. Each Chinese New Year’s Eve, while families gather at home, Tsui remains in the kitchen, preparing dishes designed to carry the warmth of reunion to his guests.

Over time, he has noticed a clear shift. Younger diners increasingly choose restaurants, often celebrating in pairs or small family groups rather than large extended clans. This year, his Chinese New Year’s Eve menu focuses on two- and four-person set meals tailored to that reality.

“When I was growing up, the table always had chicken and fish,” says Tsui, who was born and raised in Hong Kong. “They symbolized good fortune.” That attention to symbolism shapes his menu today, down to a bright red hawthorn roll meant to convey wishes for prosperity.

Working in Macao, Tsui is keenly aware of holiday rhythms. Local diners dominate from Chinese New Year’s Eve through the second day of the first month in the Chinese calendar, while visitors arrive in greater numbers from the third day onward. To meet local preferences, he introduced a takeaway version of poon choi, a layered communal dish beloved in southern China.

“A single pot is enough for a small group,” Tsui explains. “And during the Spring Festival holiday, many shops are closed. This can be taken home and eaten over two days.”

The dish includes sea cucumber, dried scallops, abalone, and shrimp — luxurious ingredients meant to mark the occasion. To ensure quality, Tsui introduced a reservation-based pickup system, allowing the kitchen to reheat the dish precisely before collection, preserving both texture and temperature.

“During the Chinese New Year period, we also prepare banquets centered on high-end ingredients such as abalone and bird’s nest, specifically for visitors traveling to Macao, so they can experience a strong sense of Chinese New Year celebration even away from home,” Tsui adds.

Tsui’s dedication reflects a broader trend in the catering industry. In the past, many restaurants closed during Spring Festival. In recent years, however, as demand for dining out on Chinese New Year’s Eve has grown, restaurants across China have embraced the idea of “staying open for the Chinese New Year”, launching reservation-based festive menus well in advance to help families celebrate their reunions.