Dishing up a taste of the culture

Lan says that modern Sichuan cuisine was influenced to some degree by Cantonese cuisine, when it was the most popular food in China in the 1990s.

He went to Guangzhou to study Cantonese cuisine for two years at that time and, in 1998, he created a new dish, chicken feet with pickled pepper, which is now a common and popular Sichuan snack nationwide.

"I was inspired by the stewed chicken feet in Cantonese cuisine and combined it with traditional Sichuan pickle pepper. When the dish was launched, it soon became popular among diners," Lan recalls.

At his new restaurant Yong, in Guangzhou, he takes Sichuan cuisine at its core while embracing local terroir and the rich culinary culture of Guangdong.

In Lan's mind, Sichuan cuisine also combines well with traditional Chinese culture, such as ceramics.