Flavors of modern China spread globally

North American growth

Toronto-based restaurateur Tang Junhao, 43, moved to Canada with his parents in 2001. With family roots in the restaurant business, he established several Chinese food businesses in Toronto before a phone call from a friend changed everything.

"He asked if I wanted to open a restaurant together," Tang recalled. "I told him the one thing I really wanted to do was bring Guangzhou-style rice noodle rolls to Canada. It's a street food that every person from Guangzhou (Guangdong province) grows up eating, a shared memory. But here, there was nothing like it. Yinji felt like the natural choice."

But bringing Yinji to North America proved far more difficult than expected. At the time, no Chinese restaurant brands had ventured this far.

"Almost everything had to be explored from scratch. Ingredient sourcing, equipment standards, food regulations, all completely different. Our head chef Stephen spent a long time in China studying how to recreate the original taste," said Tang, who co-founded the North American operation with two friends.

The hardest period was during the COVID-19 pandemic when business dropped to zero almost overnight. The team survived by pivoting to takeaway, supported by government relief and collective effort.

"We expected mostly Cantonese customers. But many Cantonese diners brought their friends from northern China, and those customers loved it too. Non-Chinese diners gradually became regulars as well," said Tang.

The menu has been adapted with larger portions and additional Cantonese specialties such as Shunde-style marinated fish skin and curry fish balls.

Established Chinese brands carry built-in recognition but also have higher customer expectations, he said. "The cost of getting things wrong is much greater, as customers will immediately compare you to what they remember from back home," said Tang.

The North American Chinese food scene has fundamentally changed over the past decade, he said.

"Chinese restaurants are no longer just late-night spots in Chinatown. They've moved into mainstream shopping malls. Young locals drink bubble tea every day. Business dinners are held at upscale Chinese restaurants," he said.

However, the rapid expansion of brands has also brought new challenges, alongside a sharp decline in the number of immigrants and students from China.

"More brands, fewer Chinese customers, that is the reality we face. Many restaurants have closed in recent years. The pressure is real, but so is the opportunity, for those willing to reinvent their menu or business model to reach a broader market," he said.