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Rule and letters on the frontier

An exhibition follows Lijiang's Mu family, showing how border leadership shaped a shared national story, Yang Feiyue reports.

Updated: 2026-04-10 06:51 ( China Daily )
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A traditional ethnic dance performance marks the exhibition's opening in late March. JIANG DONG/CHINA DAILY

Writing and ritual

Beyond governance, the exhibition also sheds light on a different dimension of the Mu legacy that was shaped by learning, literature and cultural aspiration.

Historical accounts describe the Mu rulers as "learned in poetry and observant of propriety", a distinction rare among frontier leaders. Several members of the lineage, known as the "Six Lords of the Mu Family", were accomplished writers who maintained close ties with scholars from the Central Plains.

"What is especially remarkable is that the Mu chieftains were not only loyal to the state, but also deeply engaged in cultural life. They valued literature, etiquette and education, and were highly regarded for this," says Lin Yucen from the museum's exhibition department.

One telling episode involves renowned Ming-era traveler Xu Xiake. Encouraged by an associate of the chieftain Mu Zeng, Xu journeyed to Lijiang late in life, completing his final travels there and forming a cross-cultural friendship.

Lin sees such encounters as part of a broader pattern. "Through these interactions, cultural ideas were not just introduced to Lijiang, but were reinterpreted and enriched by local traditions."

This exchange extended far beyond literary circles. Situated at a crossroads linking Yunnan, Sichuan province and the Xizang autonomous region, Lijiang has long been a hub for the movement of people, goods and ideas.

Under the Mu chieftains, relatively inclusive policies toward ethnic groups and religions fostered a society in which Han, Naxi, Tibetan and Bai communities coexisted and interacted over generations.

In the exhibition, this layered history is reflected in everyday objects, from silver ornaments to copperware and craft items that blend local traditions with outside influences.

"During the Mu family's rule, artisans from the Central Plains were invited to Lijiang, contributing to the development of local handicrafts," Zhang notes.

"At the same time, Naxi culture continued to evolve, forming a rich and distinctive cultural landscape," she says.

For Mu Xinyu, deputy district head of the Old Town of Lijiang, this layered history remains deeply relevant.

"Over more than 300 years, the Mu chieftains not only maintained stability on the frontier, but also promoted exchanges and interactions among different ethnic groups," he says.

"This played an important role in shaping a shared cultural identity," he adds.

The exhibition's final section turns to the built environment that embodies this history.

The Mufu Mansion, located in the heart of the Old Town of Lijiang, once served as the political and ceremonial center of Mu rule. Its architectural layout, along with the broader urban design of the Old Town, reflects centuries of governance and cultural interaction.

In 1997, the site was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List, recognizing a living example of a multiethnic cultural landscape.

To evoke that environment, the exhibition re-creates a courtyard inspired by Lijiang, where seasonal flowers and spatial design echo the atmosphere of the southwestern town.

"The meeting of the Mufu Mansion and Prince Kung's Mansion here in Beijing is a celebration of cultural diversity and harmony," says Gao Ping, vice-mayor of Lijiang.

"It allows more people to understand the historical and cultural value of Lijiang."

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