Reopening the doorway to a Shanghai cultural touchstone

Shikumen, a signature of city's traditional architecture, listed as intangible heritage.

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Kok Kian Yew, a tourist from Malaysia, couldn't help but marvel at the well-preserved shikumen buildings while visiting Zhangyuan, a historic site in Shanghai's Jing'an district.

The iconic landmark, one of the city's largest and best-preserved shikumen compounds, has a history dating back more than 140 years.

From 1918 onward, it was used as public housing, before undergoing a four-year renovation and, in 2022, reopening as a must-visit hot spot, boasting a unique blend of history, high-end retail and fine dining.

"Zhangyuan's shikumen buildings have profound historical heritage,"Kok told China Daily. "Preserving these old buildings is the right thing to do. Unlike the overly famous Bund, (the compound's) uniqueness makes it quite distinctive."

"The architectural style is really comforting," said Rafael Katz, a tourist from the United States. "Especially in a city like Shanghai that has so many malls and things. A place with alleyways and a more human scale is really nice."

Classified as a type of "lilong residence", or lane houses in English, in May 2011, the construction techniques of shikumen lilong architecture were listed as a national intangible cultural heritage.

First appearing in the 1870s, shikumen buildings, named after their signature stone-framed doors, carry a traditional architectural style unique to Shanghai, featuring a combination of Chinese and Western elements.

By the 1920s and '30s, two-thirds of Shanghai's populace lived in shikumen buildings. Today, although many residents have moved into more modern accommodations, and many shikumen have disappeared amid urban changes over the past 30 years, the buildings remain a cultural cornerstone of Shanghai.

Liu Gang, an associate professor at Tongji University's Architecture and Urban Planning College, said shikumen offer a deeper understanding of Shanghai's vibrant past and rich diversity.

"We perceive diversity and a sense of identity from them — these are the values that drive the city's continued development and its future progress," he said.

Liu Shengyi, a former resident of Jian Ye Li, a large shikumen complex built in the 1930s in Xuhui district, said that shikumen represent a quintessential Shanghai flavor, and life in the complex remains deeply etched in her memory, evoking a strong sense of nostalgia.

"The first sensation upon entering is comfort," she said. "My ears are filled with the sounds of the old lane — piano music, Suzhou pingtan (a traditional form of storytelling and ballad singing), the click of high heels and neighbors calling out greetings."

Currently, 1,900 clusters of shikumen lilong buildings remain in the city, and some of them, like Zhangyuan, have become vibrant lifestyle destinations and waypoints along popular city walking routes.

Thanks to a series of renovation projects over the past decade, shikumen compounds all across the city have been given a new lease on life, becoming thriving attractions in the East China metropolis. After Zhangyuan reopened, it welcomed a daily average of 50,000 visitors, with numbers peaking at 92,000.

Jian Ye Li is another example. Featuring 55 shikumen houses, in 2018 it was transformed into a high-end boutique hotel, Capella Shanghai.

"Places people associate with old Shanghai charm are growing in popularity. They get even more attention through storytelling online, with China in general also receiving more global attention in recent years," said Mathieu Wullings, a "Capella Culturist" — a specialist, dedicated lifestyle concierge who curates hyper-local immersive experiences for guests of the hotel.

"Shikumen are not just rooms, but also a feeling. Every season and time of day brings a different feeling to the longtang (the alleys that wind between the shikumen)," Wullings added.

"The history of China and Shanghai is a major reason why many leisure guests visit the city, and especially why they choose to stay in this area in particular."

Contact the writers at heqi@chinadaily.com.cn

HE QI and YU YILEI in Shanghai