Shitang Village is known as "thousand household village". [File photo]

Shitang Village, 10-plus kilometers from Niubi, is even older and more mysterious. Also known as "thousand household village", it still has vestiges of the mansions and residences which, centuries ago, distinguished it as a large thriving community.

Shitang's most impressive building is the Double Peak Castle at the village entrance. In bygone years villagers were protected by watchtowers on all four corners of the old moat-encircled square castle ramparts.

The last whiffs of gunsmoke having long dissipated, the Double Peak Castle welcomes visitors keen to savor a fragment of China's history. Among the many remaining aspects of rural culture is the "Moon Sister Song", a Han Chinese air that is the reserve of women residents of Shitang Village, Renhua County of Shaoguan. Passed down in the oral tradition for millennia, the song has become well known as an independent and unique school of Hakka performing art, characterized by its distinctive singing dialect, rhythm and Tang Dynasty (618-907) imperial court ambience. The song represents the simple esthetic sensibilities of Han laborers and their hopes for a good life.

The century-old barber's shop, with its old-style clippers, cut-throat razor, steel barber's chair, and large mottled mirrors, is another fascinating feature of Shitang Village. It reminded me of a similar shop in my hometown.

The elderly proprietor chatted with us as we looked around the shop. "I'm 80 years old now and was an apprentice here more than 60 years ago, when I was 17," he said. After rising through the ranks of boiling water, sweeping the floor, and observing and practicing essential techniques, he eventually became owner of his master's barber shop.

"Things haven't changed for decades. Although there's not much trade nowadays, I still come here every day as it gives me something to do," the veteran barber said.

As we talked, a customer came in and the barber immediately got to work, leading him to the chair and helping him on with a white gown.

After cutting the client's hair, as might be expected, the barber trimmed his sideburns and mustache. It, however, took me by surprise when this 80-year-old barber cut the tiny hairs around the corners of the client's eyes.

"Don't worry, for him shaving a month old baby's head is a piece of cake!" the client reassured us. Age had clearly not impaired this master barber's skills.

When the satisfied customer left, the barber took a seat and had a quiet smoke. We enjoyed this peaceful moment with him. I've been to many places and numerous villages, but none has affected me like Mount Danxia. The feeling of its mountains, waters and people will always remain with me.