A sinuous, brushed concrete staircase at a house in Chora [Photo/Courtesy of Ioanna Roufopoulou]

Groundbreaking, gender-bending Mykonos became a gay mecca and, perhaps inevitably, a muse for the fashion pack, too. Its bleached alleys and blond beaches provided iconic backdrops for Richard Avedon, Norman Parkinson and, later, Ellen von Unwerth, whose 1991 campaign for Guess featured Claudia Schiffer. Jean-Paul Gaultier, Thierry Mugler, Alexander McQueen, Giorgio Armani and Valentino returned every summer with an entourage of cover girls – Pat Cleveland, Fiona von Thyssen and Naomi Campbell. These were the days of a veritable bohemian rhapsody on Mykonos.

For years, people have been saying Mykonos is over; too crowded, too commercial, the old hands grumble. But this feisty little island, only one-fifth the size of Ibiza, is more popular than ever. The old nudist beaches are now smart beach clubs serving wagyu tartare and designer swimwear; fishing boats have been replaced by superyachts, free camping by butlers at the beach. Traditional tavernas have given way to international A-list chains like Hakkasan.