Ancient Chinese architecture emphasized symmetry. The Jianshui Confucius Temple may be taken as an example of this ancient obsession with balance. The temple features palace architecture with a north-south axis. On its east and west sides, multiple individual buildings stand, majestic and orderly. Similar to the Qufu Confucius Temple in Shandong Province, the Jianshui Temple also houses one pool, two main halls, two side halls, two principal rooms, three pavilions, four gates, five kiosks, five shrines, and eight memorial archways – all well preserved.
The Jianshui Confucius Temple Park is scenic, with pines and bamboos shading the temple complex, through the spiraling smoke of burnt incense. The temple’s stone carving of Confucius, reciting to the accompaniment of a string instrument, is unique. The carving, placed at the altar, commemorates Confucius lecturing his followers. Confucius sits on the ground, his thick beard drooping to his chest, seeming to chant or sing in sedate tones. His disciples, all wearing loose robes and hemp headcloth, sit on his either side listening, with extreme reverence, to Confucius’ teachings.
Ubiquitous Ancient Wells
Old wells are scattered across Jianshui’s ancient alleys.
According to historical records, the oldest in Jianshui is the Liquan Well outside the east city gate, with a history of over 700 years. A 60-cm-high balustrade encircles the round well with a 90-cm-diameter opening. Two arcs formed by huge boulders shape a cylindrical edge around the well opening. Molten pig iron was poured into the grooves at the brims of the two arcs to fuse them securely.
The most famous well here would be the Daban Well, also known as the Pubo Well, boasting the biggest opening – more than three meters in diameter. Beside the well stands a temple where the Water Deity is worshipped. The well water is clear and soft. Tea made with it has a sweet taste, and tofu, such as the famous West Gate Tofu, made with the water is tender and delicious.
Other wells in the old town include Dragon Well, Red Well, Zhuge Well, Yonglian Well, and Yongning Well. Some have one opening, while others have two, three or four, a feature rarely seen in other places.
With these innumerable wells, Jianshui people have retained the town’s ancient and traditional lifestyle. To enjoy a cup of tea, water from the West Gate Well is boiled in a copper kettle. Otherwise, residents would not deem the tea satisfying.
Jianshui’s braised tofu enjoys a fine reputation, again ascribed perhaps to the excellent water used in making it. On old West Gate Street, the aroma of braised tofu wafts out through open wooden doors. Snack bars in Jianshui mainly sell foods made with tofu. Snacks famous in other parts of Yunnan, like rice noodles, are only side dishes here for braised tofu. Visitors from far and near usually enjoy a meal of braised tofu before leaving. This is the greatest delicacy.
Jianshui people’s love of wells is not only evident in the platforms erected to protect the wells, and ditches nearby to discharge wastewater, but also in keeping the well water clean, and not using bad language near a well.
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