Jianshui Old Town is famous for its abundant historical and cultural attractions: remarkable ancient temples, ubiquitous ancient wells, countless exquisite old residences, and manifold delicacies. It’s no wonder that, the moment I set foot in this ancient town in Honghe Hani and Yi Autonomous Prefecture, Yunnan Province, I was totally captivated by its charms.
City of “Water” sans Water
Cities known for their waters, such as Hangzhou, Nanjing and Venice, all exude touches of romance and easily evoke tender emotions. The name “Jian-shui” naturally gave me the sense of a city built beside a river – for shui means water in Chinese. I became so excited that I decided to see Jianshui for myself. However, arriving at the old town, I found no such river – yet still discovered a charming town, with the serenity of a hermit, beckoning exploration.
Spotting a simple inn, I hurriedly stored my luggage, and then plunged into the city’s ancient alleyways. The zigzagging long alleys are crisscrossed with blue flagstone pavements worn smooth and glazed under centuries of wear. Traditional old houses line the alleys, subtly revealing local people’s poetic qualities and penchant for culture in the engravings and paintings of natural scenery on eaves and doors, and verses and odes in different styles of calligraphy on the walls.
A light drizzle gave the little town’s scenery even more clarity and charm. Strolling amid the bustling tourist throngs, I heard a line from The Orchid Pavilion sung by Jay Chou in his distinctive Chinese style, “On the blue flagstone street, when you glanced back and flashed a smile, you looked so gentle and graceful.” At that moment, I became totally mesmerized by the city’s beauty.
Historical Sites Everywhere
Before my departure for Jianshui, I heard this about the ancient town: within three throws of a stone a temple would appear, five stone-throws away a shrine, and two miles away stands a bridge, three miles away a tower. The statement does indeed tally with the reality.
Undergoing the vicissitudes of 12 centuries, the ancient town still preserves over 50 ancient buildings, once known as the “Ancient Architecture Museum” and “Residences Museum.” Due to its remote location and difficult access, the town remains fairly secluded. Despite successive wars and social upheavals, numerous ancient buildings have survived, including the thatch- and bamboo-roofed houses of the Hani people, the bungalows of the Yi and the Dai people, and the tile-roofed one-storey houses of the Han.
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