A sweater from the ffiXXed Autumn/Winter 2013 menswear collection.
FfiXXed's staff fluctuates from 10 to 24 in the studio, depending on how busy it is. When possible, they try to employ interns. "Not many people from Hong Kong or Shenzhen want to venture out to our studio," Lau sighs.
Picken says: "We've found that interns from Australia or Europe are more confident than Hong Kong ones. They like socializing with locals while the Hong Kong ones tend to keep to themselves."
They make everything inhouse but will sometimes outsource the production to family or friends in the villages nearby.
"Grannies will knit some of our pieces at home in the winter," Lau says.
They have no minimums, which means that we can produce an order of five pieces, says Picken. "And we always deliver on time. That is very important to our Japanese customers - they don't accept any defects."
They see their work as enhanced urban basics, with silhouettes based on traditional garments that are recognizable yet fresh at the same time. Their vest made from small wooden balls in the Spring/Summer 2013 collection was inspired by reflexology sandals and massage mats used by Chinese taxi drivers. Their bag in the Spring/Summer 2014 collection is a tongue-in-cheek take on the concept of the recyclable plastic bag.
"It's our response to everyday objects," says Picken. "We don't live outside reality. Our clothes are engrained into everyday life. We reference existing objects and garments, but utilize unexpected fabrication."
Although they admit that they prefer to work with monochromatic color schemes, their Spring/Summer 2014 collaboration with Ester Partegas yielded a vibrant series of prints that they applied to menswear and womenswear. The collection has a breezy casualness that belies its impeccable tailoring, clever cuts and thoughtful draping that encourage the fabrics to breathe naturally.
"Our latest collection is our most ready to wear," Lau says. "Ester is an old friend who lived in our studio during our collaboration."
FfiXXed offers buyers shows in New York City, Paris and Tokyo, and shops distribute the brand throughout Europe, Asia, Australia and the United States.
"Our dream is to mount a runway show at New York Fashion Week," Lau says.
Picken add: "And we hope to grow and to hire more staff, so the two of us aren't doing everything ourselves!"
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