At Richesse Chinoise, subtly smoked fish is paired with sprouts grown from black beans.[PAULINE D. LOH/CHINA DAILY]

IF YOU GO

Richesse Chinoise, Nanjing Fairmont Hotel, 333 at Jiandong Zhonglu (Middle Road), Jianye district, Nanjing.

025-8672-8888.

Average cost per person: 200 yuan ($33).

Recommended:

Stir-fried Luhao and River Shrimps, Lion's Head Meatball, Shepherd's Purse Shaomai Dumpling, Huaiyang-style Tofu with Crab Roe, Beaten Eel.

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