A vintage denim outfit at Liang Wei's store. Photos: Li Hao/GT

Gulou: a vintage clothing Mecca

Originally Liang's main target market was art students and young fashionistas, but now his shop attracts everyone from nostalgic older citizens to hip, young Westerners also known as "hutongsters."

"Foreigners are surprised to find such [vintage clothes] stores in China. Sometimes they encounter clothes from their home countries and feel a connection," he said.

Liang said vintage clothes are enjoying a revival because many people nowadays are "dissatisfied wearing identical clothes bought at malls."

"Each item [of vintage clothing] is unique. If it has been altered or improved by its former owner, it's even more special," he said.

Whether sportswear, leather jackets, shoes or jeans, Liang can recount the history and characteristics of any clothing item or fashion accessory in his store.

"If it fits, you like it and can accept the price, a deal can be made," said Liang.

Like an animal shelter taking in stray pets, Vintage House stocks clothes from different cities and even countries. Some are purchased from overseas, even though it is technically illegal to import secondhand clothes into China because they are deemed "waste products" under environmental regulations. Other clothes are bought from or traded from expats in China.

Liang's policy of not washing or dry cleaning new stock "adds to the character" of clothes, as he puts it. It also creates a heady aroma in his store of old perfume, stale smoke and other smells.

Liang admits some customers are turned off by stained clothing, but he isn't too worried.

"Even brand-new clothes should be cleaned after being purchased. Natural wear and tear, faded colors and stains can be very artistic," he said.