The emphasis on pristine nature and the local aversion to large-scale industry have also resulted in Huangshan’s maintaining the laid-back atmosphere of a country town. Where skyscrapers would have been built in most other cities, old quarters remain in the center of many districts and counties of Huangshan. Vast industrial parks are also absent, meaning the land between populated locales remains undeveloped. The limits of the city are, in effect, arbitrary; it’s really just a conglomeration of villages. To outsiders, locals might say, “I’m from Huangshan.” But they’ll always specify a district or county when asked by another local.
Huangshaners themselves seem at peace with this country-town spirit. My Beijing friends would call them chunpu, which loosely translates as “unsophisticated,” or “simple.” In colloquial English I suppose we might say “genuine” or “down to earth” to allude to the same thing.
As a foreign visitor to Huangshan this “genuineness” meant being lavished with unreserved hospitality. My friends and I would talk to locals for a few minutes for directions or advice, only to have them turn around and buy us lunch. Cigarettes were perpetually offered – a (relatively) traditional greeting in the countryside.
The combination of good old-fashioned countryside hospitality, the laid-back vibe of Huangshan itself, the presence of all the amenities of a modern city and the arresting beauty of the local natural scenery had a discernable effect on the Beijingers with whom I was traveling. Most had grown up in the North’s “Big Smoke.” But within hours of arriving in Huangshan most were already discussing the possibility of buying holiday homes – or relocating, full stop – to the city.
House prices were a topic of conversation throughout our stay, and justifiably so. While a dingy apartment in a 10-story block somewhere closest to the center of Beijing will set you back upwards of RMB 60,000 per square meter, one can pick up a brand new pad with a large balcony facing the mountains in the center of Huangshan for a 15th of that price.
Local developers seem to be bargaining on an influx of homebuyers in the near future. According to one government official, the city is suffering from a real estate glut, and prices have fallen back from their peak a year or two ago. That might change soon, however. Plans are currently in the works to connect Huangshan City with China’s burgeoning fast-train network. Soon, the city will be a mere three hours from Shanghai, and five hours from Beijing. Holiday homes aren’t common in China. But when they take off, expect Huangshan to be a favorite haunt.
Cultural Tourism
I had come to Huangshan with the express purpose of looking beyond the Yellow Mountain and discovering the secrets of the city that stands in its shadow. Fortunately, this was easy.
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