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Henan’s Magic Mountain

 

Seat of the capitals of several dynasties and their splendid heritage, both tangible and intangible, Henan Province at the heart of the Central Plains is the acknowledged cradle of the Chinese civilization.

Visitors from China and the world over flock every year to such archeological sites as the Yin Ruins of the late Shang Dynasty (1600-1100 BC) capital, where quantities of bronze wares and oracle bones carved with the earliest form of Chinese writing have been excavated. Historical highlights also include the Longmen Grottoes, built between 493-907, Baima (White Horse) Temple, China’s first Buddhist shrine built in AD 68, and Shaolin Temple – China’s martial arts Mecca.

Fewer sightseers are aware, however, of Henan’s wealth of scenic attractions that include mountains with awe-inspiring bluffs, imposing waterfalls and snaking rivers through valleys, all of which rival the scenic delights of more mainstream tourist resorts. Yuntai Mountain in Jiaozuo City is just one. A national 5A scenic area covering 190 square kilometers, Yuntai is a world geopark, national forest park and rhesus monkey (Macaca mulatta) nature reserve. The relatively few visitors to Yuntai despite its close vicinity to Beijing make it a hot destination for the capital’s holidaymakers. Last summer I and a group of colleagues joined the stream of Beijingers intent on escaping the stifling heat and smog of urban metal and concrete in search of bucolic sanctuary.

Wet Welcome

The train journey from Beijing to Jiaozuo takes eight hours. I found that the time flies by when traveling with a group of friends. Happily chatting with my companions and fellow passengers, I had no idea we had reached our destination until the train pulled into the station.

After we boarded a bus for the 30-kilometer drive to Yuntai Mountain, clouds dimmed the bright sunshine and rain began to fall in stair rods. We worried that it might ruin our carefully worked out schedule for the coming days, but the skies cleared after a couple of minutes and the sun reappeared. This climatic volatility brought to mind the folk saying in North China that summer weather is as unpredictable as a baby’s humor, which changes from tears to smiles in an instant.

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