More evidence that Yangshuo depends almost solely on tourism for its livelihood are the twin rows of souvenir stalls that lined the jetty walkway for a full 500-meter.
Resist the temptation of the "genuine Miao tribal silver bracelets", the "root carvings from real bamboo", the colorful sarongs that looked as if they had been made in Bali or Phuket, and the pretty sunhats that must have been made in Dongguan, Guangdong province.
About five to 10 minutes' walk away is the main pedestrian mall in Yangshuo. Read "more shopping". But here at least, the prices will be a fraction of those at the jetty.
There is plenty of natural beauty to be seen in Yangshuo, if you leave the well-beaten tourist paths in the company of a local friend.
Red-earthed country lanes lined by lush bamboo groves seduce the hiker or the cyclist. When you climb high enough, you can enjoy a bird's-eye view of the Lijiang River, and that is when you will truly understand why it is one of the most beautiful waterways in the whole of China.
Any place you travel to in China will boast regional dishes that you will be urged to enjoy. In both Guilin and Yangshuo, there is braised river fish in beer sauce, stuffed snails not unlike a very spicy escargot, and chilies, lots of chilies.
Wash it all down with Arhat fruit tea. It will leave a sweet aftertaste you will keep with you long after the Guilin hills are a fading picture in your memory.
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