Horses are still a vital part of the livelihood of the locals. Small and lean, the horses found here are strong and sturdy, fit for the perilous mountain roads and perfect for transporting goods along the ancient trail.

We paid a Naxi guide 200 Yuan and she led us on horses along the ancient route. This was certainly different from my experience riding on level ground, and we were quite nervous at first. But the Naxi woman guiding us told us how to lean forward when riding uphill, and lean backwards, stepping on the stirrup, when going down. She told us that locals have always and still do depend on horses to make a living, and for them they are not merely a means of transport. Owners form an emotional attachment to their steeds, and bury them and commemorate their deaths when they die. Today, horses are essential for tourism and are no long solely for transporting goods.

Our horses, after a long climb, were rewarded by a snack once we reached the top of the mountain, and the three of us, my girlfriend, our guide and I, enjoyed a short rest. My girlfriend took out some toffee and shared it with our guide. She thought it was delicious – she had never tried such delicious candy before. We gave the rest of the toffee to her, and she put them in her pockets to take back to her three children. Even in remote areas like this where tourism has brought extra income, the people are still not enjoying an affluent life. I couldn’t imagine what life here was like 10 years ago, when the doors of their towns and villages were still shut to the outside world.

This question put me in a solemn mood, and I was still contemplating it when I saw a young man selling grilled fish from a little boat anchored by the lakeshore. Boats like these have become common here in Lashihai.

The young man, selling his fish for RMB 10 each, was friendly and open, and sang a Naxi folk song for us at our request. He was quite content with his present life and had no business worries. He told us that it was good when there were plenty of tourists around and he could earn some money, but when things were not good on that front, he would enjoy the sunshine and not fret. I was quite touched by his optimism and good cheer.

Perhaps this – its ease and comfort – is what Lijiang ultimately leaves with its visitors. Bathing in sunlight and enjoying life is such a simple way of living compared to the busy, constantly changing lives of the big city. In Lijiang it is possible to forget this world completely, and for a moment there is nothing important in your life but the beautiful lake you are sitting by, the fish you are enjoying, and the smiling young man singing a folk song by your side.