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The Old Town Beckons: Returning to Lijiang

 

After settling in to our accommodation, we set out to explore. The Old Town is paved with fine-grained red breccia that save the town from mud in the rainy season and dust in the dry and whose natural colors and patterns fit in well with the surrounding environment.

The breccia forms a mesh of alleyways that wind in every direction and flow into one another at moments when one would expect a dead end. Wondering along these paths in a half dreamlike state, the center of the town Sifangjie, literally meaning Square Street, brought us an unexpected and disappointing sight. Here, crowds of tourists thronged stores selling hand-made scarves, silver ornaments, woodcarvings, cowhide wallets, and much much more. This commercial scene did not fit in with the idyllic Lijiang that I had just stepped out of.

But all one has to do to escape is dart down another alley and find yourself somewhere quieter and calmer. The bars are a perfect place to relax. Dozens of establishments appealing to every age light up the night and waken the town from its daytime tranquility. Alone or in the company of beer and friends, you can sit under the willow trees and watch the crystal clear river pass by, a gentle breeze kissing your cheeks. In moments like these one can truly enjoy here and now.

Jade Dragon Snow Mountain

Jade Dragon Snow Mountain is known across the nation for its breathtaking scenery. We woke up at the crack of dawn to get the most out of our trip there, but were dismayed to step out of the door that morning to be surrounded by fog. It looked like rain and we weren’t optimistic about the journey ahead.

The coach climbed up the mountain roads to higher and higher altitudes. In the increasingly thin air, we found ourselves getting short of breath, but the tour guide reassured us that with the gradual rise in altitude we wouldn’t have severe reactions to the change. At 4,300 meters we stopped and donned our down jackets and got on the cable car for the last part of the climb. Looking around, the heavy fog veiled almost everything around us, only vague patches of forest could be made out.

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