Southern-style moon cakes by Chaohuang Shifu in Beijing.

In Beijing, there is an invasion from the south. Chaohuang Shifu, Imperial Palace Cantonese Restaurant, leads the trend with Cantonese and Chaozhou moon cakes. The latter uses water and oil pastry that bakes into light flaky whirls, reminiscent of the radish crisps that are so popular in the capital. 548 yuan per box.

Taiwan episodes

Taiwanese-style moon cakes by Din Tai Fung.

Din Tai Fung brought Chinese dumplings to world epicurean attention, and they continue to charm gourmets in major cities with their delicate pastries and fresh, light taste in soups, noodles and stir-fried dishes. Their flaky pastries for Mid-Autumn are a showcase for Taiwanese-style moon cakes, with a rich but healthy filling and traditional Chinese flaky pastry. About 250 yuan per box.

Fresh is best

When it comes to pastry, nothing is better than freshly made. Traders Hotel Beijing bakes moon cakes daily and sells them the same day, without additives or preservatives. Fillings draw inspiration from the deep south to the far north, and include rose jam, Yunnan-style to Beijing's traditional rock sugar, pine nut and raisin filling. 18 yuan per piece of 60 grams.