The trail was strewn with nine large pools, all named after dragons. In China this mythical creature is god of rain – the source of all bodies of water – and consequently associated with almost all rivers, lakes and seas in China. We saw in some pools park staff in skiffs, skimming off flotsam and jetsam. It occurred to me that working every day in such picturesque surroundings would be the ideal job.
A tour of the valley follows a one-way loop with no place for any extended mid-way pause. An hour and a half later we were back at the mouth of the valley. On our way to the bus I spotted a wild mulberry tree laden with ruby-colored fruits. I picked a few and found that they tasted far better than any to be bought at the supermarket. This 5A park is hence also a source of 5A fruits.
Zhuyu Peak
Our next destination was Zhuyu (Icacinaceae) Peak, a route that includes 19 tunnels cut over the decade 1977-1987 that span 4.8 kilometers over a fall of 912 meters. The steep incline due to the five-meter rise in altitude every 100 meters entails several switchbacks, which is why each tunnel incorporates a 180 degree angle turn.
Our driver seemed intent on demonstrating his motoring prowess by making these sharp bends at full speed.
We all felt lucky to survive the dare devil ride to the foot of the 1,308-meter-tall Zhuyu Peak – summit of Yuntai Mountain. A perilously narrow path consisting of 1,000 steps is the only way to the top. Although the prospect of the panoramic view from mountaintop was appealing, we were daunted by the climb and so opted for a less challenging itinerary. After taking photos and sampling local yam dim sums we left for the area cleaved by the Tanpu (pool waterfall), Quanpu (spring waterfall) and Mihou (rhesus monkey) valleys. Two routes traverse the area. That towards Tanpu Valley covers flatter terrains and includes several scenic spots over its 2,000-meter course and is relatively crowded. The other 3,000-meter course includes the magnificent Yuntai Waterfall, whose 314-meter fall is the largest in China.
On noticing at lunchtime an exodus of tourists from Tanpu Valley, we took the opportunity to walk through it unimpeded by crowds. The valley abounds in pools, springs and waterfalls along a one-way route that takes in optimum scenic spots.
We first came to Longshe (Dragon and Snake) Pool, where washing one’s hands is believed to flush away bad luck and bring good fortune. Its banks were consequently packed with people waiting to take a good luck rinse. The small cascades down the path are all named according to their shape, although not always accurately. As words often fail to capture the uncanny beauty that natural forces create it might be wiser simply to admire them rather than try to capture their essence in a name.
I joined the throngs filling their bottles with water from the Bulao Spring (Fountain of Eternal Youth). Having taken a drink, all I can do is wait in hope for a result.
On leaving Tanpu Valley, we headed for the national rhesus monkey nature reserve. Several colonies roam the region, but we only saw two lone apes at different locations. Accustomed to humans, they were unruffled by the stream of exiting tourists, and happily accepted food from them.
The main attraction of Quanpu Valley is its steep cascades culminating in the Yuntai Waterfall. Unfortunately the abnormally low rainfall earlier in the year depleted its water volume and hence its velocity.
It was around dusk when we descended the mountain. My legs were numb after a long day of climbing, but it was difficult to slow down on the downward path. Although reluctant to leave I knew it was unrealistic to try to see every scenic spot on Yuntai within a day. I fully intend to revisit it before long.
A Taiji performance in one of the many pools in the region.
Tips:
Price: The admission fee is RMB 210 during the peak season from April to October and RMB 120 from November to March, but the scenery is enchanting in its way all year round. Summer visitors are advised to bring at least one sweater as the temperature plummets at night and remains low through till midday. One ticket is valid for two days, but for a single entry only at each scenic spot. Visitors should arrange itineraries according to specific physical conditions.
Food and drink: There are stores at the entrance and exit to every scenic area, and the walk normally takes at least an hour, so be sure to take adequate food and water before starting out.
Transport: Yuntai Mountain is easily accessible from Beijing by bus, train or car. Train travelers can get off either at Jiaozuo or Xiuwu, and change for a shuttle to the mountain. There is a special tour line between Beijing and Yuntai leaving each Friday night and arriving the next morning– a choice that saves on hotel expenses.
Neighboring attractions: Those who have time to spend longer in Henan Province are strongly advised to visit such iconic historical sites as the Longmen Grottoes, White Horse Temple and Shaolin Temple.
Source from China Today
Editor: Shi Liwei
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