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Shichahai, an Oasis in the City

Shichahai is a majestic lake situated in downtown Beijing. For centuries it has provided local residents with a sanctuary from the hustle and bustle of the day. More recently, the lake has benefited from improvements to its environment which has worked to enhance its natural charms. Today, it is a true oasis amidst the sea of activity taking place in the surrounding metropolis and provides a tranquil escape to stressed workers seeking a sense of space and well-being. So today we hit the road with Yunfeng for a much-needed relaxing walk around this ancient yet peaceful lake district --- Shichahai!

When you walk around Shichahai, a sense of its history inevitably hits you. Composed of three man-made lakes, Qianhai ("Front Sea" Lake), Houhai ("Rear Sea" Lake) and the lesser-known Xihai ("West Sea" Lake) once formed part of a system of waterways that fed into the Imperial Capital. For centuries wooden boats carrying produce from the south would make the journey up the Grand Canal and enter the city via these waterways. Those days are long gone. After a period of decline, the lakes, are now a prime recreational destination. With overhanging willows lining its banks and café bars tucked away in its many secluded corners, it is also a delightful area to relax over a drink while watching life on and off the water.

At the south end of Qianhai Lake and opposite the North Gate of neighboring Beihai Park's North Gate is a recently renovated square where flowers in full bloom serve as the perfect background to stunning rock sculptures. The square is popular with locals who come here to exercise, fly kites, play cards or even have their hair cut. Curios are also on sale while pedicab drivers chat as they wait for passengers wanting to be carried around the neighboring hutongs. This is almost a scene out of a movie set in "Old Beijing".

As the paved track winds around the eastern side of the lake it passes a dock lined with motorized pleasure boats. On the other side, the floating Romance Bar provides dinner on the lake to the accompaniment of traditional string instruments. Hidden behind some trees to the right are several fine new restaurants while offshore a small island with its round pavilion has been transformed into a secluded bar.

Looking down across Qianhai our eyes are drawn to the magnificent Drum (Gulou) and Bell (Zhonglou) Towers which functioned as important timepieces of the Imperial Capital from as early as the 15th century. Just below the two towers, the far shore is lined with traditional grey-tiled low buildings - former homes of officials whose daily lives revolved around the bell chimes.

 
 

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Key Words

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