VIP room

This well-established Hong Kong brand is lauded for its pricey preparations of classic and modern Cantonese fare -- but most foodies in Beijing head over for its lunchtime dim sum.

From fluffy pork buns to dainty egg custard tarts, this chain restaurant serves some of the best dim sum outside Hong Kong or Guangzhou. Mains like the braised spareribs, lobster clay pot noodle or stir-fried oysters with XO sauce make the evening service worth a visit.

Prices are moderate if you eat family-style.

Lei Garden, 3/F, Jinbao Tower, 89 Jinbao Jie, near Dongsinan Dajie; C2-C3, Tower C Central International Trade Center, 6 Jian Guo Men Wain St., Chao Yang District, Beijing; +86 (10) 8522 1212

Din Tai Fung

The signature dish at this celebrated Taiwanese chain is its surgically precise xiaolongbao -- juicy soup dumplings wrapped expertly by hand and cooked in bamboo steamers.

Diners can choose between pork, seafood, crab or veggie fillings, or splash out on the pork with truffles variety –- pricey but delectable.

Accompanying dishes includes simple stir fries, noodles and rice, and sweet red-bean buns for dessert.

Din Tai Fung, 24 Xinyuan Xili Zhong Jie, Beijing; +86 (10) 6462 4502

Susu

Hip hutong style at Susu Vietnamese restaurant.

Part of a growing trend of "hidden" hutong restaurants, this stylish courtyard eatery serves the best Vietnamese food in town.

A pair of chefs from Saigon assemble pork spring rolls and zingy salads bursting with herby aromatics, like exotic fish mint and Asian basil.

On everyone’s table is the signature La Vong fish, a DIY dish of turmeric yellow fish fillets, glass noodles and bundles of fresh greens.

The nifty cocktail bar mixes themed libations, such as the Quiet American, a blend of whiskey, lemon, ginger and grapefruit bitters.

Susu, 10 Qianliang Hutong Xixiang, near Dafosi Dongjie; +86 (10) 8400 2699

Hatsune

Pearlescent sashimi and inventive California rolls are served in a hip but pretension-free atmosphere in this long-time Beijing institution.

The dozens of unconventional, fusion-inspired sushi rolls are great fun, perfect with craft beers and an extensive sake selection.

The tempura is crisp, light and oil-free, There's also delicious grilled mackerel and plenty of salads and other Japanese snacks.

Hatsune, S8-30, Bldg. 8, Sanlitun Village South, 19 Sanlitun Lu, near Gongti Beilu; +86 (10) 6415 3939

Mercante

Bologna-based chef Omar Maseroli and his Chinese partner took a bold step with Mercante, opening a tiny, slow-food inspired Italian eatery in an ancient hutong alleyway far from Beijing’s established restaurant zones.

The result is a tiny slice of Italy in old Beijing, and a delightful secret everyone privvy to wants to share.

The rustic menu keeps it simple with house-made pasta with rabbit or duck ragu, ravioli, imported meats and cheese and fresh-baked foccacia, paired with a well priced list of Italian wines.

Mercante, 4 Fangzhuanchang Hutong, Dongcheng district, Beijing; +86 (10) 8402 5098

Budget

Less than RMB100 ($15) per person, including drinks.

Haidilao

Spicy hot pot is one of Sichuan province’s most successful exports; Beijingers simply love eating by dunk and dip.

Haidilao, a Sichuan chain, goes the extra mile in the capital by offering astonishingly generous service on top of its fragrant bubbling broth.

Hot towels and free drink refills are par for the course, but there can’t be many restaurants in the world where you can get a complimentary manicure and fruit plate as you wait in line.

Haidilao, 2A Baijiazhuang Lu, Chaoyang district, Beijing; +86 (10) 6595 2982

Chuan Ban

With stodgy service and a canteen ambience, this 60-table Sichuan restaurant is a throwback to the old days of Chinese restaurants.

It is, however, affiliated with the Sichuan Provincial Government Office and therefore has some of the most authentically spicy fare in town.

Heavy on numbing Sichuan peppercorns, the dishes here, like "tingle-pepper chicken" and shuizhuyu (fish boiled in a spicy, oily broth), stand apart for their depth of flavor and use of imported ingredients from Sichuan.

You’ll have to line up during peak times, but turnover is brisk.

Chuan Ban, 5 Gongyuan Toutiao, Jianguomennei Dajie, near Chang'an Grand Theater; +86 (10) 6512 2277 ext. 6101

Mr. Shi’s Dumplings

Dumplings, the porky party pockets beloved by the Chinese, are wrapped fresh to order at this cheap and, thanks to the avuncular Mr. Shi, very cheerful eatery.

The "three-sided" fried dumplings (san mian jiao) resemble miniature, greasy tacos, held together by sheer juiciness. The boiled dumplings filled with beef and coriander or beef and celery are dangerously addictive when sloshed in the dipping sauce of garlic vinegar and chilli.

Mr. Shi's Dumplings, 74 Baochao Hutong, Gulou Dongdajie, near Nanluogu Xiang; +86 (10) 8405 0399

Crescent Moon Muslim Restaurant

This green and gold alleyway restaurant grills up some of the best dishes from China’s far northwest -- cumin-spiced lamb skewers, crispy nang breads, house-made yogurt, hand-pulled noodles and ornate pots of salty milk tea.

The hearty dapanji (big plate chicken) is chicken on the bone slow-cooked in a savory broth with potatoes, veggies and hand-pulled noodles; danxian subing kaorou is a crispy vegetable and egg pie, with a big mound of fried lamb and onions dumped on top.

Service is surly but efficient and the atmosphere is more refined than at typical Xinjiang joints.

Crescent Moon Muslim Restaurant, 16 Dongsi Liutiao, near Chaoyangmen Beixiaojie, +86 (10) 6400 5281