Around 1945, as the extravagance reached a peak in Shanghai, cheongsam became even more snug-fitting to highlight figures, and the lower hem was elevated to the knees from the lower legs. In the late 1940s, China’s fashion industry was already well developed. New fashionable garments and new styles were emerging in large numbers, and Chinese people were offered more choices. During this time, US-style costumes were popular in large cities like Shanghai. Thus, many chose men’s suits and one-piece dresses, and cheongsam no longer remained the only option.

Tang Wei in the movie Lust, Caution

Influenced by this trend, cheongsam gradually became fashionable and more designs developed, such as the cheongsam skirt. In a strict sense, these fashioned cheongsam couldn’t be considered to be cheongsam, since it lacked collar, lappet and slit cut; three determinative elements of this garment. However, people still addressed it as cheongsam. During this time, cheongsam covered a broad range of garments. At the end of the 1940s, cheongsam was extremely popular with the Chinese people. Almost every city woman owned one or two cheongsams, regardless of social status or figure. After the founding of the People’s Republic in 1949, cheongsam was gradually replaced by simple garments. Since then, cheongsam only appeared for exclusive foreign affairs activities.

Cheongsam is a frequent choice for international star Gong Li during appearances on important occasions.

By the end of the 1950s, cheongsam was replaced by the Chinese tunic suit and Mao jacket. It was not until the early 1980s that the garb was again seen in public places. However, it has become a kind of ceremonial dress for formal occasions, rather than a prevailing garment, as in the 1930s and 1940s. At present, cheongsam can be seen in many Chinese TV shows, and in many Chinese-language films, such as Lust, Caution, Rouge, The Flowers of Shanghai, Center Stage, Eighteen Springs, and In The Mood for Love. At international film festivals such as the Academy Awards, Venice, and Cannes, at the Miss World contest, and in international model competitions, cheongsam is synonymous with China. For many female Chinese film stars, cheongsam is their first choice when attending important occasions.

Editor: Liu Xiongfei