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Song Brocade

 

Song Brocade can be categorized according to the structure, craftsmanship, quality of the materials, thickness of brocade and the utility. Generally there are three categories of Song Brocade, namely, Big Brocade, Box Brocade, and Small Brocade.

As the most representative of Song Brocade, Big Brocade is featured by thick, solid, and exquisite texture, as well as abundant layers of color. Double Brocade, which can be grouped under Big Brocade, is the most valuable variety of Song Brocade. It boasts several distinctive characteristics. Specifically, a large amount of entwisted gold threads or sliced gold foils are used in the warp and weft. Besides, in terms of the techniques, shuttles are made by twisting a number of silk threads into one strand. Multicolored shuttles are cast, some for creating homochromatic effects, some for changing colors in different parts of a pattern, and others for specific colorific effects. Moreover, there are plentiful patterns, among which plants, flowers, turtle backs, coiling braids, and the eight Buddhist treasures are the most common ones.

Most of Double Brocade products are varied furnishings and giant scrolls displayed or hanging in imperial palaces. For instance, there is a masterpiece of Song Brocade housed by the Palace Museum, which is a Double Brocade scroll from the Qing Dynasty. Entitled “Pure Land,” the 2-meter-wide single design consists of 278 Buddhist figures with different facial expressions, lofty palaces, divine pools, trees and rocks, curling auspicious clouds, as well as rare flowers and birds. The scroll fully demonstrates the superb artistic techniques characterizing Song Brocade.

Fine Brocade, another subcategory under Big Brocade, is simpler than Double Brocade in terms of its raw materials and number of the warp-and-weft layers. In modern times, silk is used alternately with rayon to reduce costs. Moderately thick and easy to produce, it is widely used for decorating or framing clothes, high-ranking paintings and calligraphic works, as well as valuable presents.

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