Perhaps the most interesting arrival is that of the artists who have developed a vibrant artistic community that has become part of Zengcuo’an’s identity. Their touch can be seen everywhere, with walls and even fire hydrants adorned with murals and artistic graffiti, and posters for independent films crowding the village committee’s billboard. Their influence can also be detected in the whimsical names of the more than 100 eateries, inns and bars, each with its own personality, such as Dream Traveler and See You on Sunny Days, which shuts down when it rains.

When I heard about the government-funded commercial street that was under construction I was concerned for these unique businesses expressing the individual tastes and characters of their owners. But the rents suggested are reasonable and space has been set aside for artistic endeavors. The government won’t meddle with the natural flow of the local market.

This is a blessing, because it would be impossible to copycat the small businesses in Zengcuo’an without losing the ingenuity behind their details. The creative freedom of the village is why it has become a gem among China’s travel destinations, compared to the many Chinese beach resorts that have mirrored Gulanyu’s experience and lost their charm.

Travel Tips

Transport

Xiamen is conveniently connected with the rest of the country by air, land and water. Zengcuo’an is at the eastern section of Huandao Road, Xiamen, 40 minutes drive from both the Gaoqi International Airport and Xiamen Railway Station.

Sites of Interest:

Matsu Palace

The complex stands by the Zengcuo’an bus stop, facing the sea. According to local folklore, the goddess was a girl who drowned in the sea and was buried on the shore. She later became the local Taoist patron saint of fishermen. Local opera is performed on a stage by the palace for two months beginning every October. It is the village’s biggest annual event.

The Ancestral Hall of the Zeng Family

First built in the 12th century, the structure was burnt down during a conflict and rebuilt in 1992. The shrine dedicated to the Zeng ancestors is closed throughout the year except on Tomb Sweeping Day in early April and Midwinter Day in late December, when sacrificial rituals are conducted. Part of the property was transformed into a café in 2010.