Every 16th day of the first lunar month (February 10 this year), villagers cover the slippery stone street with coal ash to prevent slipping, and pull out seven to 10 horses for an upcoming performance. Soon after breakfast, young and brave men gather at Guandaokou, a square near the east end of the street, waiting for a ride, and spectators swarm into Xiadongzhai from neighboring towns and even faraway places. It is the perfect arena to show off one’s riding skills, as they must get on and ride the horses bareback. Some experienced riders even let go of the horses’ manes and loosen their legs’ grip around the horses’ backs. More than courage and experience, all the riders believe the “three gods” will render them good luck.

After the warm-up, the horses break out into a sweat and need to rest. But before their reappearance for the official performance, a group of young boys who wear costumes and make up their face to look like monkeys parade in single file. A “monkey king” sits on a thin pole and imitates expressions and actions, and the other monkeys follow. He amuses audience by scratching his head like a monkey, winking at the crowd, snatch a spectator’s cigarette and putting it into his own mouth, grabbing someone’s hat to put on his head, or jumping down to climb up the pole. This comical interval is probably used to ease the tense atmosphere of horse running.

A rider wearing a fur-lined jacket inside-out

As people are still laughing at the clownish performance of the “monkey king,” a gong thunders, ushering in the final rounds of horse running, which is quite different from the previous ones. Only seven riders are allowed to participate and they are clad in tight short clothes and head scarf, with the leader wearing a fur-lined jacket inside-out, a bronze-bell decorated wooden frame and an official letter on his back. They are dressed up to be like messenger riders in ancient China who raced day and night to deliver urgent letters. The inside-out fur-lined jacket kept the rider warm all the way, and the bronze bells dotted on the wood frame would warn those who stood in his way. Three rounds of the seven formally-dressed riders’ horse running pushed the movement to a climax.

A running parade of heavily painted Shehuo performers

heavily painted Shehuo performers

When horse running concludes, drums are beaten to herald the approach of the Shehuo shows. From the western end of the street, one can see a running parade of heavily painted Shehuo performers, wearing ancient military costumes and weapons in hands, approaching. They run three rounds along the street, with the first round paying worship to the “three gods”, the second to Daguan and Erguan. In the third round, they join in the team of “welcoming fireworks”, a ceremony in which villagers, led by Duguan and Erguan, carry a huge homemade firework to Guandaokou. Afterwards, the firework is placed on sacrificial table and then ignited, its lingering sound piercing the sky and scaring both the demons and bad luck away. Accompanying the crackling firework is music played by the Bayin ensemble. In this concert, Daguan and Erguan get seated at a temporary podium and deliver a welcome speech to the standing audience.